Page 141 - Textile
P. 141
Textiles and Garment Construction
techniques used to neaten raw edges when Cutting and joining crossway stripes
making a garment: for making a binding
Binding: Binding is a method of finishing A crossway strip or bias is a narrow
raw edges whereby a strip of material piece of fabric cut on a crossway across
is sewn on the edge and folded over the warp and weft threads. It is used for
the raw edges in such a way that it is neatening and decorating garments and
visible on both sides of the garment or household articles. It is used for binding
article. Binding is usually narrow between raw edges, facing, bound buttonholes,
3 and 6mm wide and may be used for openings, Rouleau loops and piping. Due
decoration, neatening, or serving both at to its stretching characteristic, crossway
once. It can be used to neaten the edges of strips are commonly used to neaten curved
sleeves, necklines, armhole, seams, hems edges such as necklines and armholes.
of garments and household articles such Procedure for working on a crossway strip
as tablecloths. Decorative binding effects (i) Folded the fabric over one corner in
can be achieved using crossway strips such a way that the weft edge lies
with contrasting colours or textures. For along the selvedge.
example, checked or striped bindings are
best on plain fabric. 90
Rules for working on binding
(i) Binding should be applied on thin
fabrics. This is because a finished
binding has five layers of materials,
making it bulky. Therefore, to reduce 90
bulkiness, thin fabrics serve the
purpose. Mark the fold line with pins and open
(ii) When finished, it should be equally the flap.
wide on both sides of the garment.
(iii) Using a ruler or guide, mark with
(iii) When cutting the binding, it must pins or chalk lines parallel to the
be even throughout. fold line; the distance between them
(iv) It must be flat and not twisted. is the required width of the strips.
(v) The joining in the binding must (iv) Cut along the marked lines.
match the seam in the garment.
(v) Join the strips to get the required
(vi) The width of the crossway strip is length if necessary. Layout the stripe
usually 4 times the finished width side by side, right side uppermost.
of the edge to be bound.
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