Page 148 - Textile

Textiles and Garment Construction

Hem: A hem is the finished edge of the width of hems for circular edges of
fabric in a garment where the raw edge a garment should be 1.3 to 2.5cm. If the
is folded under and neatened by different material is transparent, the width of the
techniques. Most hems are made by two first turning should be equal to the width
turnings. The first turning is narrow, while of the second turning.
the second one can be either narrow or Criteria for choosing hems: When
wide depending on the size of the hem. choosing a particular hem style, ask
Wide hems on a curved surface can yourself the following questions: Will the
create creases or have fullness that can hem let the garment hang properly as per
be removed by making small dart-like the intended design? Will it hang evenly
pleats in the fold, as shown in Figure 7.2. in a smooth line above the floor? Will the
hem be inconspicuous unless the stitching
is intended to be decorative? Will the
hem be even and smooth without lumps
or excess fullness? Consider another
hemming method if the answer is “yes” to
these questions. Here are the factors that
should be considered for the appropriate
choice of hem:

(a) The fabric weight and texture: These
will affect the type of hem to be chosen
Figure 7.2 Small dart-like pleats or small in the sense that the lighter the fabric,
folds the narrower the hem. For example,
Hems are purposely used to prevent the a narrow-rolled hem is suitable for
raw edge of a fabric from fraying. They lightweight fabric, while false hems
are used to neat straight or curved edges are suitable for heavy woollens as
of different garments, such as at the lower they also help reduce bulkiness.
edges of skirts, dresses, trousers, sleeves, (b) The style of the garment: This can
pockets and soft furnishing such as affect the type and width of the hem
curtains. Hems are also used on necklines to be chosen. For example, narrow
and waistbands. The widths of the hems hems are normally chosen on a flared
vary according to the weight of the fabric or circular skirt, whereas in a straight
and the shape of the edge. The hem width skirt, wider hems are used. This is
should be at most 7.5cm. The width of 5.0 because wide hems on circular skirts
- 7.5cm is suitable for skirts, dresses, and tend to sag and alter the garment's
coats that have wider and straight hems. appearance.
Hem width of 2.5 - 5.0 cm is suitable for
jackets, pants, and blouses. For instance,

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