Page 179 - Textile

Textiles and Garment Construction
of the fabric. However, the fabric with
stripes, plaids and prints should be folded
with the wrong sides facing each other to
help match the fabric design.
An open layout may be used where the
fabric has to be spread on a table without
folding it and pattern pieces placed on the
fabric from left to right, one after another.
When cutting a single layer of fabric, the
right side should be out. It is important to
determine the right side of the fabric in
all the cases. However, plain fabrics are (ii)
not very easy to identify on the right side
compared to printed ones. The following
techniques can be used to identify the right
side of the fabric.
(i) Examining the selvedge sides,
the right side is smoother than the
wrong side
(ii) Examining punched holes at the
selvedge, holes are punched from
the right side to the wrong side
(iii) Checking on the bolt when buying;
normally, it is rolled right side out.
When the right and wrong sides have
been identified, the fabric is ready for
folding and lying out pattern pieces.
Fabric can be folded in various ways
depending on the pattern pieces to be
laid out. Read the instructions provided
by the pattern envelope; if the guide sheet
is not provided, look at the type of fabric
and garment style. The fabric may be
folded lengthwise, crosswise, double or
partially as follows:
(i) Lengthwise fold: Fold the fabric (iii)
lengthwise with the right side
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together, and match the selvedge
ends. This is suitable for fabrics with
patterns running in the same direction
or reversible fabric. Refer to Figure
9.7.
Figure 9.7: Lengthwise fold
Crosswise fold: Fold the fabric
down in the middle perpendicular
to the selvedge with the right side
together. Match the cut ends and
keep the two layers of selvedge
even along each side. For napped
fabrics, the nap must run in one
direction on both layers. This layout
is suitable for materials that are too
narrow to accommodate the width
of the pattern pieces when folded
lengthwise. It can also be used for
one-way fabric designs. Refer to
Figure 9.8, showing the crosswise
fold.
Figure 9.8: Crosswise fold
Double fold: Fold the fabric twice
along lengthwise or crosswise; both
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