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Textiles and Garment Construction
Hems: A hem is the finished edge of a Hem width of 2.5-5.0 cm is suitable for
fabric in a garment where the raw edge is jackets, pants, and blouses. For instance,
folded under and neatened by different the width of hems for circular edges of a
techniques. Most hems are made by garment should be 1.3 to 2.5cm. If the
two turnings. The first turning is narrow material is transparent, the width of the
while the second one can be either narrow first turning should be equal to the width
or wide depending on the size of the hem. of the second turning.
Wide hems on a curved surface can create
creases or can have the fullness that can Choosing of hems
be removed by making small dart-like When choosing a particular hem style,
pleats in the fold as shown in Figure 5.1. you should ask yourself the following
questions: Will the hem let the garment
hang properly as per the intended
design? Will it hang evenly in a smooth
line above the floor? Will the hem be
inconspicuous, unless the stitching is
intended to be decorative? Will the hem
be even and smooth without lumps or
excess fullness? If you cannot answer
“yes” to these questions, consider
another method of hemming. Here are
the factors that should be considered
Figure 5.1 Small dart-like pleates or
small folds for the appropriate choice of hem:
a) The fabrics weight and texture:
Hems are purposely used to prevent These will affect the type of hem to
the raw edge of a fabric from fraying. be choosen in a sense that the lighter
They are used to neat straight or curved the fabric the narrow the hem. For
edges of different garments such as at the example, narrow rolled hem is suitable
lower edges of skirts, dresses, trousers for light weight fabric while false hems
as well as sleeves, pockets and soft are suitable for heavy woollens as they
furnishing such as curtains. Hems are also help in reducing bulkiness.
also used on necklines and waistbands. b) The style of the garment: This can
affect the type and width of hem to
The widths of the hems vary according be chosen. For example, on a flared
to the weight of the fabric and shape or circular skirt, narrow hems are
of the edge. The hem width should not normally chosen whereas in a straight
exceed 7.5cm. The width of 5.0 -7.5cm skirt, wider hems are used. This is
is suitable for skirts, dresses, and coats because wide hems on circular skirts
that have wider and straight hems. tend to sag and alter the appearance of
the garment.
Student’s Book Form Three 91
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BOOK TEXTILE FINAL 13.09.2022 FINAL.indd 91
BOOK TEXTILE FINAL 13.09.2022 FINAL.indd 91 2022/11/17 16:14:57
