Page 11 - Textile_and_Garment_Form3

Textiles and Garment Construction
On the other hand, lightweight fabrics
require seams that conceal their raw edges.
(ii) The position of the seam
There are certain seams that are
not suitable in certain areas of a
garment, for example, a French
seam can be suitable when used on
the side seams of skirts and blouses
because it can be best worked on
straight edges. However, it cannot be
used when attaching a sleeve because
the armhole is curved. Similarly,
a French seam is used successfully
for the side seams of petticoats but
not suitable for attaching the midriff
(waist) section to the upper bodice.
(iii) The shape of the edge where the seam
is used
Curved areas should be sewn with
seams that are not bulky and can lie flat,
for example, a plain seam is suitable for
armholes. Curved seams are sometimes
required for attaching a curved yoke.
(iv) Type of a garment
Some seams can be appropriate for
particular garments but not others.
For example, garments worn next to
the skin require flat and comfortable
seams unlike outer garments where
any seam may be used. For this
reason, a double stitched seam would
be more suitable than a French seam
for panties. The strong seams such
as double stitched seams are needed
for clothing that must withstand
hard wear and constant laundering.
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BOOK TEXTILE FINAL 13.09.2022 FINAL.indd 2
BOOK TEXTILE FINAL 13.09.2022 FINAL.indd 2 2022/11/17
That means, a double stitched seam is
suitable for jeans but not for a cotton dress.
(v) Style of a garment
Top-stitched seams can be chosen
to emphasize a style feature on a
garment. For example, an overlaid
seam can be used to join panels
on a princess line dress or on the
yokes of skirts, blouses and shirts.
General rules for working on seams:
Seams are commonly machine stitched
but one can hand stitch a seam using a
backstitch. The seams need to be strong
in order to enhance the appearance of the
garment or articles. The performance of
seams means the achievement of strength,
comfort, durability and elasticity. Good
appearance in a seam normally means
smooth fabric joints with no missed or
uneven stitches and no damage to the
material being sewn. The following rules
have to be observed for good result (s):
(i) The thread used must be suitable
for the material, for example,
cotton thread on cotton fabrics.
The colour and the texture of
the thread should match with the
colour and the texture of the fabric.
(ii) Choose appropriate seam depending
on the weight of the fabric to avoid
bulkness. For example, flat seam
for the medium and heavy weight
fabric.
(iii) Choose the correct size of
stitches according to the weight
of the fabric; for example, short
stitches on lightweight fabric and
long stitches on heavy fabrics.
Student’s Book Form Three
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