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Textiles and Garment Construction
Note: Inverted and box pleats differ in Figure 2.8: Sunray pleats
terms of appearance on the right Activity 2.3
side however, the construction
techniques are similar. The wrong Make samples of each type of pleats
side of the box pleat resembles learned in the class and keep them in
the right side of the inverted pleat. portifolio.
Accordion pleats: Accordion pleats consist
of very fine pleats with outstanding folds. (e) Easing
They have two sides of the same length Easing is used for arranging a small
and are permanently pressed. The pieces amount of fullness whereby machine
are cut on the bias that is, diagonally across tacking or fine running stitches are
the grains of fabrics. Refer to Figure 2.7 worked close to the seam, then the thread
is pulled to draw the fullness. Easing
is mostly used to manipulate curved
. seams and fullness in sleeve heads.
Easing is also used at shoulder seams,
yokes, hems, waistbands and on round
pocket. The finished seam should look
smooth, without any gathers, folds
or tucks. To ease a greater amount of
fullness, use the following techniques.
(i) Tack the seam in the usual way. Make
sure the balance marks are accurately
Figure 2.7: Accordion pleats matched without stretching the fabric.
Sunray pleats: Sunray pleats have folds that Stitch close to the seam line with
are outstanding but tapper off to nothing
at the end. This means that the pleats long machine stitches or fine running
start very small at the hip and get bigger stitches (if working by hand),
closer to the hem. Refer to Figure 2.8. extending the stitches slightly beyond
the markings.
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Student’s Book Form Three
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BOOK TEXTILE FINAL 13.09.2022 FINAL.indd 32
BOOK TEXTILE FINAL 13.09.2022 FINAL.indd 32 2022/11/17 16:14:31