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Textiles and Garment Construction




















           Note:  Inverted  and box pleats  differ in          Figure 2.8: Sunray pleats
                 terms  of  appearance  on  the  right     Activity 2.3
                 side  however, the  construction
                 techniques are similar. The wrong      Make samples of each type of pleats
                 side of the box pleat resembles        learned in the class and keep them in
                 the right side of the inverted pleat.  portifolio.

           Accordion pleats: Accordion pleats consist
           of very fine pleats with outstanding folds.   (e) Easing
           They have two sides of the same length     Easing  is used for arranging  a  small
           and are permanently pressed. The pieces    amount  of  fullness  whereby  machine
           are cut on the bias that is, diagonally across   tacking  or  fine  running  stitches  are
           the grains of fabrics. Refer to Figure 2.7  worked close to the seam, then the thread
                                                      is pulled  to draw the fullness. Easing
                                                      is mostly used to manipulate  curved
           .                                          seams and fullness in  sleeve  heads.
                                                      Easing is also used at shoulder seams,
                                                      yokes, hems, waistbands and on round
                                                      pocket.  The  finished  seam  should  look
                                                      smooth, without  any gathers,  folds
                                                      or tucks.  To ease  a  greater  amount  of
                                                      fullness, use the following techniques.
                                                       (i)   Tack the seam in the usual way. Make
                                                           sure the balance marks are accurately
                  Figure 2.7: Accordion pleats             matched without stretching the fabric.
           Sunray pleats: Sunray pleats have folds that        Stitch close to the seam line with
           are outstanding but tapper off to nothing
           at the end.  This means that the pleats         long machine stitches or fine running
           start very small at the hip and get bigger      stitches (if working by hand),
           closer to the hem. Refer to Figure 2.8.         extending the stitches slightly beyond
                                                           the markings.
                 32
                                                               Student’s Book  Form Three




                                                                                          2022/11/17   16:14:31
     BOOK TEXTILE  FINAL 13.09.2022 FINAL.indd   32
     BOOK TEXTILE  FINAL 13.09.2022 FINAL.indd   32                                       2022/11/17   16:14:31
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